The Oxford Blue sits high at the top of a hill, Crimp hill Old Windsor. It has a rich history. First opening in 1829 and taking its name from the Royal Blue Regiment, also known as The Oxford Blues. Throughout 2016 and under ownership of Chef Proprietor Steven Ellis, a total refurbishment took place. Opening on New Year’s Eve, it has gained quite a reputation in the last 9 months.
On my arrival I could see just how much had gone into its transformation, from the inside and out. Soon seated, complementary Venison ‘Bon Bon’s’ arrived at my table. Their crunchy outer perfectly covering the rich meaty inner. Combined with hollandaise sauce, tasted exquisite. No sooner had the Bon Bon’s left my table, a brown paper bag appeared. On tearing it open, through the steam I could see bread, a hand baked cider bread served with a cultured butter. It was rich and like nothing I have tasted, if I knew where they got this butter, I would have to get a new suit, it’s that good! My main course soon touched down, cod with sea vegetables with a side order of beef dripping chips. Resting on samphire, its light golden outer protected perfect bright white flakes. Saltiness from the samphire working in harmony with the seaweed valouté. Clams and a delightful fish cake reinforcing every flavour, superbly balanced and the beef dripping chips were delightful. I felt I could taste the marbling!
Dessert needed careful consideration. On the waiters recommendation I decided on the soufflé. Arriving with chilled chocolate orange on a spoon. This was then dropped into the Soufflé allowing a lovely ‘flux’ to occur. The taste, malted cream with the rich chocolate and a strong hint of orange. If heaven made deserts! As my meal finished a small box appeared at our table. On opening, a shard of tempered dark chocolate, with hazelnuts and sea salt. There was even a small hammer to break it up. The chocolate tasted so good!
I feel quite lucky living in the South East. Lucky to have so many good gastro pubs close to my home. Over the past few years the standard of gastronomy within the pub dining space has improved greatly. There now so many competing at a high level. To stand out from the crowd takes a huge amount of dynamic within the kitchen. Steven Ellis has managed to achieve this. His time served at Restaurant Gordon Ramsey has most definitely produced a very exciting young chef. Now flourishing, he is really raising the bar. Service at The Oxford Blue is impeccable. Something I rarely say. I walked out thinking months are separating it from a Michelin star, and that it was of my best eats of 2017.
Expect to pay £45.00 – £55.000 per person with drinks.
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