Driving through Burchetts Green, it was hard not to fall in love with the Village. Peaceful and surrounded by light woodland. A tranquil calm away from the busy A roads of my journey. Burchetts green is home to The Crown. A small unassuming pub that has built quite a reputation in the few years since Simon Bonwick opened there. As I pulled into the car park I felt a sense of anticipation. It has already gained one Michelin star. This is quite remarkable considering there is only one chef in the Kitchen, Simon Bonwick.
I was greeted on arrival by one of Simons Children. Who collectively run the bar and front of house. Yes, this is a family run restaurant. My immediate impression was how welcome they made me feel. Seated next to the tiny bar, I soon found myself sipping their house ale and talking about the menu with the waitress. The crown has a small and concise menu. Most of the courses look very simple. But I just knew that they would have a special twist. I decided on Crab for my starter and saltmarsh lamb for my main course. I received a beautiful canapé and was soon informed my table was ready.
The main dining area has real character. A wood burning fire and a very homely feel. My starter arrived. Sheringham Crab with Apple, Citrus and Cashew. The balance of this dish was very delicate. The sweetness of the crab being complemented and balanced with the acidicness of the tomato petals. The apple added a fruity dimension while still being able to detect the toasted char from cashew nuts. Very impressive.
Then on to the main course of Lamb Rump, with Chestnut & Thyme cooking juices. Presentation immaculate. The vegetables served whole and delicately peeled, spinach intertwined with the lamb. Roast potatoes arrived separately in a tiny pan. The Lamb, cooked to perfection with a generous layer of fat that added a real depth of flavour. The jus tasted incredible and somehow married together the whole dish together. The whole course was perfectly cooked, flavoursome and delicious.
I can’t tell you how much I was looking forward to choosing desert. I chose ‘Michael Cluizel’ chocolate with rum and raisin. Presentation was perfect. As my spoon broke into the fondant. I was met with a rich and deep chocolate oozing onto my plate. First taste revealed the most exquisite coco and the ice cream, where do I start? I have no idea how much or what rum Simon uses for this. The taste is like nothing else. Simply amazing. Even with richness of the rum, I could still detect intense sweetness from the raisins. The fondant had wonderful sharpness from the quality coco used. What a desert.
Desert was followed by tea and macaroons which were of course delicious.
The Crown is somewhere that has changed my perception of what personal and good service feels like within a restaurant or gastro pub environment. I felt a real sense of warmth from the family that run it. The food put simply is superb. Big flavours executed to perfection
3 courses expect to pay £65 – £70 including drinks
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